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河口近傍における長波について[III]
A Long Wave in the Vicinity of an Estuary [III]
Momoi, Takao
131078
453
application/pdf
Succeeding the previous works under the same title, the theories on long waves around an estuary are developed under the approximations of the third, fourth, and fifth orders of the Bessel functions. A principle used in this paper is a method of the buffer domain devised by the author. The newly obtained facts are as follows : (1) In the interior of the canal, a valley of the amplitude is found, which was passed unnoticed in the previous works, (2) a trough line in the open sea bends down towards the mouth of the canal, which results in an entrance of a tongue-shaped valley of the amplitude inside the canal, (3) in front of the canal, isolines of phase take a trapezoid form, and (4), when kd=1.4 (k: a wave number, d: a half width of the canal), diverted waves appear in the open sea which advance along the straight coast causing high waves there.
前報告についで河口近傍における長波に関する理論がベッセル函数の第3,第4,第5近似のもとに展開されている.理論展開の原理は筆者によって導入されたbuffer domainの方法である.そして次のような事実が新しく知られた.すなわち,(1)水路の内部に振巾の谷が見られる(これは前報告においては看過された事実である),(2) 広海(open sea)における振巾の谷線(trough line)は河口に向って屈曲し,舌状の谷が河口の内部に入り込んでいる, (3) 水路前面において等位相線は梯形をなしている, (4) kd=1.4 (k: 波数, d: 水路の巾の半分の長さ)のとき,広海には河口よりそれてゆく波(diverted wave)が現われ,直線海岸で高波をおこしながら海岸にそって進む.
departmental bulletin paper
東京大学地震研究所
1967-01-30
application/pdf
東京大學地震研究所彙報 = Bulletin of the Earthquake Research Institute, University of Tokyo
3
44
1009
1040
AN00162258
00408972
https://repository.dl.itc.u-tokyo.ac.jp/record/33552/files/ji0443011.pdf
eng